Autumn in the Black Forest: slowing down on endless gravel trails
Words by David Sluiter
As summer fades and autumn begins, the days grow shorter and nature prepares for winter. While life in the Netherlands shifts back into high gear after the holidays, I set out to embrace a different rhythm—on a gravel biking adventure through Germany’s Black Forest with friends Merlijn and Michael.
The journey starts with a six-hour drive into the heart of the Schwarzwald, Germany’s largest forested region. We pass through quaint villages with wooden houses adorned with geraniums, eventually reaching Hinterzarten. We celebrate our arrival with Nussecke, a traditional German pastry, and head out for a sunset ride. The gravel trails, still wet from rain, shimmer in the low golden light. Towering spruce and fir trees create a dark canopy, revealing why this place is called the “Black Forest.”
Merlijn and Michael are seasoned cyclists, known for their passion and skill. Michael, fresh off a grueling alpine ultra-gravel ride, plays on the trails with wheelies and bunnyhops. Their energy contrasts with the peaceful, fairytale-like surroundings: moss-covered rocks, gentle waterfalls, and the ever-present scent of pine and damp earth.
The following morning, mist blankets the valleys as we ride past the Titisee, a dark lake wrapped in forest. The scenery echoes classic Grimm fairy tales—Hansel and Gretel, Little Red Riding Hood—all believed to be inspired by this region. Giant cuckoo clocks and bronze fountains of folklore characters dot the villages, adding to the magical atmosphere.
We venture deeper into the forest, following narrow singletracks and long alleys of gravel that beg for speed. One eight-kilometer descent becomes a blur of trees and wind, stripping away thoughts and bringing pure focus. Later, the Dürrenberg climb demands effort, rewarding us with silence and simplicity: just the crunch of gravel, breathing, and motion.
Midday, we stop at Kalte Herberge, a hiker’s refuge on the Westweg trail. Inside, the cozy German interior and warm hospitality offer comfort, capped with homemade cake. The final stretch returns them to Hinterzarten via smooth asphalt and wide-open meadows.
On the last morning, a brief ride under a dramatic sky ends the trip. As they pack up, a final sunbeam sets the forest ablaze in golden, coppery hues—nature’s fiery farewell to summer.
